The British Virgin Islands—home of the famous Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival— are known among sailors for steady winds, an abundance of well-maintained moorings in scenic, protected bays and coves, and easy line-of-sight navigation that makes for fun, breezy day trips and adventures.

The BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival, one of the Caribbean’s premier annual sailing events, held March 27 to April 2, 2023, has become a favorite among boaters who crave big competition followed by even bigger afterparties. This year marks the 50th anniversary of this international event, so expect the fetes to deliver like never before. The week draws in more than 90 yachts from around the world as well as attendees taking advantage of the BVI’s massive rental fleet to enjoy five days of racing – two days for the Sailing Festival and three days of racing for the Spring Regatta – and three course areas. Note that the regatta offers 12 classes and the Sailing Festival offers five classes, welcoming every skill level from novice to expert so anyone who loves the salty life can take on action to suit their speed, from high-intensity, competitive racing to leisurely cruising. Each race finishes at a different spot, giving attendees a taste of the BVI life of island-hopping, from Foxy’s Bar on Jost Van Dyke to the newly remodeled restaurants and accommodations of Nanny Cay on Tortola.

If you can’t make the Spring Regatta, rest easy. The British Virgin Islands is a year-round sailing hotspot where you can create your own itinerary highlighting whichever isles you choose. Charter a monohull or catamaran either with a captain or bareboat—there are plenty of options to make the trip your own.

Most trips start on Tortola, the biggest island and home to the international airport. Tortola also serves as the base for most boat charter operations, including The Moorings, Sunsail and Waypoints, the newest charter option, launched in late 2021 and operating out of Nanny Cay. Of course, the island itself has much to offer as a destination. One of the more popular anchorages is Cane Garden Bay on the northwestern side of the island, known for its turquoise water, as well as choice kayaking, snorkeling and surfing November to March. Stay into the evening for the barbecue and live music at Quito’s Gazebo, a local favorite. Soper’s Hole Marina serves as another great base for provisioning and strolling the pastel-colored boutique shops. Active types won’t want to miss the hike up to Sage Mountain National Park, the highest peak in the U.S. and British Virgin Islands.

One of the other four biggest islands, Virgin Gorda, sits 8 miles from Tortola. It’s the home of The Baths National Park, an iconic scenic spot where basalt boulders lean against one another permanently, forming grottoes and tunnels to explore and climb. Multiple routes weave throughout, each leading to a different high point perfect for taking a group photo or a hand-holding group jump into the deep waters. For a relaxed meal or cocktail while still taking in this epic scenery, head to the Top of the Baths or tuck into a grilled lobster before enjoying a frozen coffee drink or mudslide cocktail poolside. On Virgin Gorda, you’ll find one of the resorts most beloved by sailors: The Bitter End Yacht Club. This resort reopened in 2021 and now offers overwater bungalow accommodations, an upgraded option should you want to enjoy a night off the boat or extend your trip a few days. In 2023, the resort will roll out new amenities, including a massive expansion to its legendary Club Fleet with new watersports programs, including kiting, wing foiling and windsurfing.

From Virgin Gorda, sail two-and-a-half hours north and reach 11-mile-long Anegada, the least visited of the inhabited BVI. It’s a rare gem well worth the effort. Anegada offers that back-in-time peaceful respite. Take Cow Wreck Beach, a haven for solitude-seekers. You can walk miles in any direction and often not see another soul. The bar itself is a different story; it’s a place drawing an eclectic crowd of scuba divers, snorkelers and other nature lovers. Horseshoe Reef, the world’s fourth-largest barrier reef, is not to be missed, with ample opportunities to encounter eagle rays, Atlantic spadefish, permit and a host of other marine life. 

Then there’s Jost Van Dyke, a day-tripper favorite for its soft, white-sand beaches where there’s always a party. Soggy Dollar Bar on White Bay is the center of the action, where boaters converge to partake of the local cocktail called the Painkiller, a mix of dark rum, cream of coconut, pineapple and orange juices, topped with fresh grated nutmeg. Each bay on Jost Van Dyke offers its own beach bar, from Sidney’s Peace and Love on Garner Bay (Little Harbour) to Foxy’s Bar—home of the world-famous New Year’s Eve Party—at Great Harbour. If you want to overnight on Jost Van Dyke, you have a couple of new options. The Hideout, a newly opened boutique seven-villa resort, offers a high-end experience on White Bay. New as well are the neighboring White Bay Villas with 20 units, all with traditional Caribbean style and unbeatable sunset views.

In between the big four islands are countless smaller ones and more than 17 easy-to-find anchorages. In the BVI, you can also take advantage of a handful of private island resorts open for day visitors. Enjoy a cocktail or gourmet meal at Saba Rock, reopened in 2021, or book a spa treatment at Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina. Of course, a few undeveloped islands don’t offer much by way of amenities but have plenty of escapism. A hiking trail on Salt Island leads to small cliffs overlooking crashing waves. It’s also home to the country’s most famous scuba-dive spot. Boaters who overnight here get first crack at snorkeling or diving the R.M.S. Rhone, arguably the Caribbean’s best preserved shipwreck, dating to 1867. Norman Island, rumored to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island, is known for its seaside caves, hiking trails and deserted beaches waiting to be enjoyed.

That’s the beauty of the British Virgin Islands: There’s so much to explore in whatever way you like, whether that’s rafting up flotilla-style with your best mates and taking on the sights, bars and bites together, or breaking away for a quieter, more intimate getaway, navigating your own path toward nature, solitude and one-of-a-kind hideaways. It’s all here in the British Virgin Islands.

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The British Virgin Islands are at the top of many sailors’ list of favorite charter destinations — and once you’ve been, you’ll understand why. From the consistent sailing conditions to the abundance of gorgeous anchorages and beach bars, this place was made for cruisers.

Tortola is the largest island in the group, and its main settlement, Road Town, is where you’ll find several charter bases surrounding the large harbor; others are just a short cab ride away. There are grocery stores, bakeries and liquor stores near town for provisioning. Or better yet, have your charter company take care of it.

Whether it’s your first charter in these islands or they are an annual destination, the BVI doesn’t disappoint, and you can tailor your experience to your preferences. Love snorkeling and diving? Make sure that underwater hot spots like the wreck of the RMS Rhone and reefs at the Indians and the Dogs are on your itinerary. Want to stay up until the wee hours? Check out a full moon party at Trellis Bay or Bomba’s Surfside Shack. Love sailing? Include a jaunt to Anegada during your trip.

Most BVI charters last a week, which is enough time to enjoy several of the islands, but if you can swing 10 days or more, go for it! Leaving from Road Town, a typical route heads counter­clockwise through the islands, with most of the sailing in the protected waters of Sir Francis Drake Channel.

The Bight at Norman Island is an easy first-night destination. There are moorings and plenty of room to anchor, although if you don’t enjoy late-night crowds, choose a spot away from the William Thornton (aka Willy T’s), a floating bar and restaurant anchored in the southwest corner of the Bight. Ready to jump in the water? Be sure to check out the caves nearby at Treasure Point and the reef at Pelican Island.

Farther up Drake Channel, the Baths at Virgin Gorda are a fun place to explore — be sure to arrive early to secure a mooring — and there are cool photo ops among the giant boulders. An ideal spot to relax midcharter, Virgin Gorda’s North Sound is home to the Bitter End Yacht Club, Saba Rock and the Leverick Bay Resort and Marina, all good choices for a drink or meal ashore. North Sound itself offers well-protected, flat water that is perfect for trying out any water toys you might have aboard. Next, if conditions are good and you’re up for a sail, you can head out to Anegada, known for killer sunsets and lobster dinners on the beach.

Whether you’re sailing back from Anegada or over from North Sound, stop for lunch and a snorkel at Monkey Point, Guana Island, and then pick up a mooring for the night at Cane Garden Bay. This postcard-­perfect bay is the place to go for live music, and for a real taste of the BVI, there are tours and tastings at the Callwood Rum Distillery.

If you love beach bars, Jost Van Dyke has some of the best, from Foxy’s at Great Harbour to the Soggy Dollar at White Bay. A ­quieter ­evening can be had anchored off picturesque Little Jost Van Dyke. Wrap up your week in the BVI with a night either at Peter Island or Cooper Island, and you’ll be well ­positioned for an easy sail back to Road Town.

What to know if you go

Climate: The BVI has a tropical climate with temperatures that vary little throughout the year. On average, the rainiest months are September through November, and the ­driest are February and March.

Winds: During the winter months, the trade winds are northeasterly at about 15 to 20 knots, though from December to mid-­January, there may be periods of “Christmas winds,” which can blow 25 to 30 knots for days at a time. In the summer months, the trades are more southeasterly at 10 to 15 knots.

Sailing level: Steady breezes and easy navigation on mostly protected waters make the BVI an ideal spot for a first bareboat charter. Although moorings are plentiful, they fill up quickly in the high season, so skippers should be well adept at anchoring.

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Just 16 out of 60 British Virgin Islands are inhabited, with everything from private-island resorts to nonstop beach-bar parties. That leaves 44 islands free for the exploring, from an island that looks every bit like the postcard-famous spot The Baths, only without all the people. Likewise, there’s the tiny spit of sand so pretty that a handful of Corona commercials were filmed there.

Read on to find the best islands for hikes, snorkel spots and beaches that you just might have all to yourself on your next getaway.

Fallen Jerusalem Island: Best for Photo Ops

Adore The Baths but hate crowds? This island, less than a mile south of the tip of Virgin Gorda, is home to another pile of basalt boulders that are every bit as picturesque and photo worthy as those of the iconic site. The differences: This island is smaller and has no infrastructure, including roads, so it’s much harder to access. In other words, it’s a totally private experience—like having The Baths all to yourself.

Salt Island: Best for Hiking

Shelters line the shore of this island most famous as the home of the folks who rescued passengers from the R.M.S. Rhone when she sank in 1867. The islanders living there more recently were the descendants of the folks who had been gifted the island in exchange for their heroic efforts. All that changed in 2017 when hurricanes Irma and Maria rendered the homes unlivable.

Now, the island is home to goats only. Their footpaths double as hiking trails leading to overlooks—one above Lee Bay where the Rhone lies, and another on the cliffs overlooking South Bay. The second is much more dramatic, and leads to more trails allowing for a proper hike.

Great Dog Island: Best for a Unique Snorkel Experience

They call it Sharkplaneo: Local nonprofit Beyond the Reef sunk three airplanes sculpturally welded to look like sharks—a bull shark, a hammerhead and a nurse shark to draw awareness to local species. They’ve been purpose-sunk to a depth of 40 feet, so even snorkelers can enjoy the site, diving down for some photo ops near the planes.

Plus, these vessels were sunk just next to a shallow reef, so you can anchor or moor once then enjoy two in-water experiences.

Sandy Cay: Best for Beach Walks

Due east of the island of Jost Van Dyke, this island with a palm tree forest and wide but steep white sand beach is a hotspot among boaters. In high season, its west coast sees many at anchor, with vacationers coming ashore to play football on the beach or simply relax on the shores.

But, even in high season, almost nobody walks around the bend to the south shore. Here, while listening to waves break on reefs, you can enjoy the escapism of utter solitude.

Little Jost Van Dyke: Best for a Cocktail away from the Crowds

Nobody receives mail on this island, but there is a tiny beach bar called the B Line. One of the quirks of this yellow-and-green shack is that the bartender flies the ‘OPEN’ flag when he’s tending bar, so passing yachties know whether or not to drop anchor. You can expect a full bar, open in early morning—just don’t ask for coffee or food. There’s also picnic tables and cornhole set up to encourage lingering.

Dead Chest Island: Best for Connecting with History

It’s not hard to see why pirates prized these islands and their topography, from the caves of Norman Island to the hidden lairs of The Baths of Virgin Gorda. So it’s no surprise that a few tales of pirate lore have survived, including the story of Blackbeard, aka Edward Thatch, allegedly abandoning 15 men on this island after he heard of their mutinous plans.

Today, a narrow but rocky beach remains on the northwest and southwest shores. One option would be to dinghy close in and anchor. The beach is serene, but the more rewarding option is to snorkel off this island on which so few ever tread.

Ginger Island: Best Quiet Beaches

Right now, Ginger Island is uninhabited, but that could very well soon change. The privately owned island is for sale—and allegedly it’s under contract. For now, this 250-acre island is nothing but shrubby chaparral and small tropical forests of tamarinds, loblolly and cedar trees. While you can explore the hilly island, there aren’t footpaths. You’re better off dinghying to the beaches to enjoy some solitude.

This island is also home to a handful of famous dive sites, including Alice in Wonderland, found along its south bay. The site extends from 40 to 70 feet, so stretches of these scenic coral gardens are accessible to snorkelers.

The Indians: Most Memorable Snorkeling

OK, so this sheer outcropping of four rock formations just north of Norman Island doesn’t have the most politically correct name, chosen for the site’s resemblance to a feather headdress. But it is a magical snorkel spot.

Stick to the west side of these pinnacles to swim among schools of blue tangs and sergeant majors, as well as reef fish, such as queen angels, parrotfish and trunkfish. If the spot isn’t crowded, you may also encounter a passing eagle ray.

George Dog: Best for Playing Castaway

When sailors first passed through these parts, they mistook the barking for dogs, but it was actually the call of Caribbean monk seals. The seals are no more, but the name stuck. Now, this boulder-and-white-sand isle isn’t visited much. Boaters who do show up have George Dog to themselves, including the white sand beach, the smooth boulders and the protected coves of gin-clear water.

Sandy Spit: Best for Enjoying a Cold One

The 2017 hurricane season has changed the shape of this island, making it even smaller than it was when all the Corona commercials were filmed here, taking advantage of the utter escapism of a place that was all white sand and just a few palm trees—and only about as wide as you could throw a football.

The hurricanes stripped the spit of any greenery, but it’s still a choice spot for a picnic, game of football or just chillin’ in a beach chair enjoying, well, a Corona.

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It was the second full week of December, and in case any of us needed a reminder as to the time of year, the Christmas winds had Sir Francis Drake Channel in the British Virgin Islands frothing with whitecaps. And, of course, we were bashing straight into them as we left the Mooring’s docks at Wickams Cay on Tortola under power, bound for Deadman’s Bay on Peter Island to scope out a site for a photo shoot later in the week.

The three us aboard the Moorings’ 4500 Baba Jaga that afternoon—Moorings marketing VP Josie Tucci, photographer Jon Whittle, and me—were technically all on the clock. Our job? To have a good weeklong romp through the islands, attend to just enough business to call it a “work trip,” but mostly, confirm that yes, even in a pandemic, the British Virgin Islands are still a sailor’s paradise. So far, they were looking pretty good to me. I’d left frozen Boston a day earlier and arrived on Tortola in time to enjoy a lazy afternoon with a cold beer and late lunch before the sun set, and my mates arrived with their complimentary welcome-to-the-islands rum punches in hand. 

These days, rather than conducting large group briefings, the Moorings asks charterers to watch safety and boat videos before arriving. The upside is that the actual in-­person boat walk-through is short and to the point. So, the next morning, while Tucci met with her team at the base and Whittle worked on videos, in less than an hour, a dockhand showed me how to turn on the 35-gallon-per-hour watermaker, fire up the genset, and where to find breakers and shut-off valves for the water system and heads. 

Next on the agenda was a tour of the Wickams Cay complex with Oliver Kinchin, head of customer operations for the Moorings and sister company Sunsail.

I’d taken a similar tour two years earlier during a visit for the Moorings’ 50th reunion. At that time, the base had just reopened following the devastation caused by hurricanes Irma and Maria, and nearly every structure was a work in progress. This time, it was well on the way to reawakening from what Kinchin called a yearlong “COVID rest,” when the islands were closed to visitors, and boats sat mothballed at the dock.

With travel restrictions easing and charter bookings pouring in, the staff was scrambling to get the fleets back up and running, and also to complete several ongoing post-hurricane improvements to the on-site hotel, a waterside restaurant and other support facilities. 

Our tour included a visit to the new sail loft, which currently is packed with sails and cushions saved from boats lost or damaged by the storms that struck in 2017. The task ahead is to inventory and inspect the contents of hundreds of sail bags to decide what can be saved and what gets tossed. Eventually, a full-service sail and canvas shop will fill the space.

We visited the new-parts warehouse, where row after row of shelves were organized with cubbies and bins holding the countless bits and pieces needed to meet tight turnaround times for several hundred sail and power charter boats. And we took a stroll through what will be a new on-base provisions store once it opens sometime this winter. Factoring in the COVID rest, the progress was impressive.

And then we were off. All it took was a quick call to the ­dockmaster on the VHF, and dockhands appeared, lines were hauled aboard, and we were on our way.

When I visited two years earlier, all the islands bore deep scars from the powerful tropical storms, but Mother Nature had done a remarkable job of repairing things. Approaching Peter Island, the hills were a vibrant green, and the long sandy beach at Deadman’s was as clean as a whistle. It would work just fine as a backdrop for sailing shots of the new Moorings 4200 catamaran, the first of which had just arrived in the islands.

Our stop for the night was Cooper Island. Though several boats were already there, we found an open mooring ball close to shore. Tucci on one bow and Whittle on the other deftly wove their dock lines through the eye of the mooring pendant and cleated them off. That left us with nothing to do but swim, enjoy cold Caribes on the flybridge, and watch gusts dance across the water. In the evening, the Cooper Island Beach Resort’s Rum Bar lured us ashore. Inside we met a couple of charter skippers and their mates from St. Thomas, who were enjoying a last busman’s holiday before a busy winter season catering to guests. But honestly, we had our own work cut out for us choosing what to sample from shelves stacked high with exotic rums from around the world.

The next morning, Wednesday, our little crew cobbled together a rather loose itinerary for the next few days. A sail to Anegada was out. Getting there and back would eat up two days, and besides, at the last minute, Tucci had talked a Florida friend, Trish Gordon, into joining us, and we had to pick her up Thursday night in Trellis Bay. That gave us Wednesday to pay an obligatory visit to the Baths, the iconic rock formations on nearby Virgin Gorda, and then make the run up to North Sound to see what progress was being made rebuilding the Bitter End Yacht Club.

Over breakfast, I took advantage of the onboard Wi-Fi and checked the Windy app on my phone. Wow, we were in for a breezy week. That fact was further confirmed the minute we left the lee of Cooper Island and started bashing headlong into 25- to 30-knot winds and the resulting lumpy seas. 

At the Baths, we grabbed a day mooring, launched the dinghy, and headed for shore. But on the way, we ran into the charter skippers from the night before. They’d just come from the beach, where a long line of tourists from a cruise ship anchored off in the distance waited for their turn to follow the path through the boulders. No way we were up for that COVID party. Instead, we returned to the mothership and resumed our bash north.

To starboard of Baba Jaga, thick clouds loomed over the peaks of Virgin Gorda; behind us, the islands to the south disappeared in a massive squall. Then, by Great Dog, it was our turn to get soaked. My lightweight slicker didn’t stand a chance against the pelting rain that engulfed the boat and sent Tucci and Whittle running for the saloon. Instantly we were surrounded in a whiteout, and I throttled back the diesels so we just crept along through screaming 40-knot gusts. 

It was a fast-moving tempest, though, and I was nearly dry as we ran down the channel into North Sound. Inside, the wind picked up again, and just as we were about to grab a mooring at the Bitter End, the skies opened once more. As we motored in a circle to let it pass, one gust sent the two sun cushions atop the Bimini flying. Whittle caught one, and we had a lively time trying to chase down the other and grab it with a boat hook. Thankfully, a couple of women on a nearby boat jumped into their RIB and retrieved it from the drink for us. And speaking of drinks, I was ready for one by the time we found an open mooring just off the Bitter End’s new dock.

The Bitter End has been a sailor’s playground since it opened in the early 1970s, but the resort, like the one on nearby Saba Rock, was flattened when hurricane-­spawned tornadoes ripped through, leveling anything and everything in their paths. 

It took several months to settle insurance claims, and many more to clean up the carnage, but eventually work began on a new and better Bitter End. When we paid a visit, a “soft opening” was scheduled for the following week.

So far, two overwater bungalows, part of Marina Lofts, have been finished, and plans are to add three more. The small two-story cottages each have their own dock and porch overlooking the harbor, where 72 guest moorings have been installed.

Next to the lofts, the staff was scurrying to put the final touches on the Quarterdeck lounge and restaurant. Much of the wood throughout these buildings, and the rest of the nautical village, was recovered and repurposed by a team of some 70 construction workers. A provisions market, pizza kitchen, boutique and kids play area were also being readied for the first visitors. Resort marketing director Kerrie Jaffe told us that for this winter, the emphasis was on getting the waterfront and marina reopened. Eventually, though, private homes will be built on the 64-acre property.

From the Bitter End, we took the dinghy across the channel to the latest incarnation of Saba Rock resort. It had reopened a couple of months earlier. The first-floor dining room was busy when we pulled alongside the dock that surrounds the building. Upstairs, the open-air bar was bustling too, and of course we had to sample their signature drink, Saba on the Rocks, made from spiced rum, passion-fruit puree, triple sec and orange juice.

The new Saba Rock includes seven guest rooms and three suites overlooking North Sound on one side and Eustacia Sound on the other. They’re pricey—$700 a night in high season—but the views are out of this world.

Thursday, after a morning swim and breakfast, it was time to go sailing. Another day of big trade winds was forecast, but at least it would be from behind us. With two reefs in the main, we traced our tracks back out of the sound, then unrolled two-thirds of the jib as we bore away toward Spanish Town. We stopped there for a stroll and lunch, and then set off on a delightful downwind run to Beef Island and Trellis Bay under just the jib. Alone at the helm, I turned on the autopilot, kicked back, and watched the haze-shrouded islands 5 miles ahead slowly come into focus.

The sun was low in the sky by the time we grabbed one of the last moorings near the airport in Trellis Bay. Scanning the beach, I was pleasantly surprised to find that crews had removed nearly all the damaged boats that had littered the shore on my last visit.

With Gordon aboard and Baba Jaga’s fourth cabin finally filled, we set off bright and early Friday to explore the remaining islands in the chain. We stopped for breakfast at Diamond Shoal, a must-visit snorkeling spot alongside Great Camanoe Island. From there, we hopped around to Monkey Point on Guana Island. On previous trips, this had always been the place to see big swarms of baitfish and tarpon on the prowl, but not this time. After a quick dip, we hoisted the still-double-­reefed main for a lively downwind run to Great Harbour on Jost van Dyke.

Tucci took the helm, and I wandered forward to one of the seats on the bow to take it all in: the towering peaks and valleys on Tortola, the sparkling sunlight, the clouds casting shadows on the water, the wind, the swells. Boy, what a sail.With a hiss, Baba Jaga would catch a wave and ride it until its bows buried in a trough. Then another puff would hit, and we’d take off again. It was definitely a ride to tuck away and revisit on a cold New England night back home.

That evening, a rocking reggae band drew a comfortable-size crowd to Foxy’s, another indication that folks are ready to come back to the islands in search of some fun. We found that true the next morning as well, when we squeezed in behind the reef at White Bay to drop an anchor off the beach. A swell was running and the breeze gusted around the point, so I returned to the boat to stay on anchor watch while the rest of the crew went ashore for Painkillers and lawn games. They even got to watch a wedding take place at the Soggy Dollar and chatted up the newlyweds afterward.

Late in the afternoon, we crossed back to Tortola and Cane Garden Bay. Ashore after sunset, we walked along the waterfront, past restaurants with bonfires burning on the beach in anticipation of the full moon that would soon rise over the mountain. At the end of the sand, we came to a lively scene at a bar and restaurant called the Indigo House. We sat down for drinks at one of the last open tables just as the owner, Valerie Rhymer, tinkled a knife against her glass and announced free shots for everyone in celebration of their first-year anniversary.

Later she and her husband, Kareem, joined us for a chat. She was a Florida girl who came to the BVIs in 1979 and sold boats for the Moorings in the early ’80s. Kareem was from Tortola but had spent several years in the States before returning home and opening Myett’s restaurant and hotel down the bay. For several years while raising their children, they’d lived in the house where we sat. Like so many others, it was destroyed in Irma, but after rebuilding, they decided to open it as a restaurant. So far, business has been good, thanks to loyal local patrons, many of whom work on various charter boats. Between sips of rum, Kareem admitted to feeling good energy now that the islands are coming back to life. He predicted a busy winter season ahead.

On Sunday, our last full day aboard Baba Jaga, we got going early and motored around WestEnd on our way to meet Richard and Shannon Hallett at Peter Island. They run a Moorings crewed charter boat, and it was a day off for them, but they too were on a working holiday, skippering the new 4200 for our photo session. It was still plenty windy, but they hoisted a full main and jib and reached back and forth as we chased along under power. When Whittle had all the photos and drone footage he needed, we tucked into the lee of Round Rock, set sail, and then bore away ourselves for two long jibes to the Bight on Norman Island.

The Willy T was the spot for Sunday sundowners. A steady stream of cruisers and charters came to the ship’s portside ­dinghy dock like moths to a flame. To starboard, the locals arrived in Cigarette boats and multi-engine center-consoles that they rafted alongside. Backflips from the floating bar’s upper deck were the dives of choice for this crowd.

And then, too early, it was time to return to Baba Jaga for one last dinner and a little stargazing on the flybridge.

Monday morning, Whittle hopped aboard with the Halletts to shoot our boat on the sail home to Road Town. Finally, overnight, the Christmas winds had settled down, and we were able at long last to shake the reefs out of the main. It was another outstanding trick at the helm, that close reach back to Wickams Cay. 

Inside the harbor, a Moorings captain came out in an inflatable and jumped aboard to put Baba Jaga back in its slip. And with that, our job was done. We’d successfully navigated travel restrictions, visited the islands, and met many a person looking forward to, if not an entirely normal season, a busy one. And we’d gone sailing. That was the best part. Definitely. We’d gone sailing. 

Pandemic Practicalities

None of or our crew had problems clearing into the BVI. Arriving by air at Beef Island, visitors were taken to a building next to the airline terminal. Inside, officials asked to see proof of vaccination, and a negative test result taken within four days of arrival. Those who had test results within 48 hours were free to proceed to customs. I did not, but rapid tests were available on-site for $50. All of this had been clearly spelled out ahead of time on websites maintained by both the charter company and BVI officials, so we encountered no surprises. In mid-December, masks were required throughout the BVI, and on Tortola, compliance appeared to be universal. On other islands, visitors and locals were more lax, but most activities took place outdoors, and we never encountered any concerning crowds. There were reportedly numerous sites in Tortola to get the required COVID test within 24 hours of returning to the States, but the Moorings and Sunsail had a medical person on-site to perform rapid tests for $125 a piece. Tucci had brought her own home kit, and those results were accepted as well at the airport, where we had to show proof of a negative test to get our boarding passes. To be honest, with a little research ahead of time, travel to the BVI, in my opinion, was no more complicated than it was in pre-pandemic times. Hey, it’s the islands!

Provisioning on the Fly

Our little adventure had been organized at the last minute, so close to our departure date, in fact, that paperwork for the boat and provisioning through the Moorings arrived after the two-week-prior-to-departure deadline for returning it. I went online and ­ordered basic provisions—water, paper goods, beverages and the like—from RiteWay, a supermarket across the road from Wickams Cay. These were delivered to the boat. As I unpacked the boxes, I checked the goods against my order list and found that a few items were missing. The delivery person was nearby, and agreed to return the next day with the rest of the order. • Then, with the gang all there, we drew up a longer shopping list for meats, veggies, snacks and libations, and made a run to the OneMart Superstore, which was recommended by a cab driver. A store employee, Edwin Salapare, picked us up at the charter base, helped us shop, and then back at the dock, he loaded our supplies into a handcart and hauled them to the boat. The staff at the base was happy to arrange for him to come, but one could contact him directly at 284-440-3027. He provided fantastic service, and we tipped accordingly.

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When Richard Hokin arrived on Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands 30 hours after Hurricane Irma passed on September 6, 2017, he wasn’t particularly shocked. He fully expected that his Bitter End Yacht Club had been destroyed. After all, the BVI island had endured a Category 5 storm with relentless 180 mph winds—and a storm surge that wiped out anything the gusts had spared. 

He was correct: What was essentially a pile of rubble greeted him where the resort, which had been in his family for 44 years, once stood. There was one surprising thing though. The oldest fleet member was missing. What had happened to the faithful boat that predated his family’s ownership of Bitter End, the one that was integral to its development in the early days and still loyally served the resort? Where was Reef Sampler?

“The fact that the boat had disappeared was kind of mysterious because some of her superstructure had washed up on Prickly Pear Island, which is right next to us. But there was no sign of the boat,” Hokin says.

When Irma hit, Reef Sampler was approaching its 50th birthday. In need of a platform for fishing, diving, exploring and picnicking, the Hokin family commissioned the 34-foot downeast fiberglass hull from Webber’s Cove in Blue Hill, Maine, to be finished at Essex Boat Works in Connecticut. Named for the family’s favorite pastime in the vibrant Virgin Islands waters, Reef Sampler was delivered in 1969.

“She started out as our family’s just-messing-around boat in St. Thomas and eventually became the workhorse for Bitter End,” Hokin says. “She hauled most of the building materials from St. Thomas up to North Sound in the early days when we were just starting to remodel and expand, and then she was our principal source of fun there. We’d take off and go over to Anegada for the day and go diving or go out fishing. Our life really centered around the boat.”

Reef Sampler rode out Irma holding on to the heftiest mooring. As it turned out, it never let go. In early 2018, the UK Hydrographic Office, conducting its first BVI survey in nearly a century, discovered an anomaly in its soundings. Further investigation by Sunchaser Scuba revealed Reef Sampler’s hull, sitting neatly upright on the bottom of North Sound, still tied to the sunken mooring.

Abandoning the boat in this watery grave was never an option. “Next to me, she’s the oldest member of the Bitter End crew,” Hokin says as he readies for his 82nd birthday. “I wasn’t going to walk away from her—we’ve been together for over 50 years. How do you walk away from someone or something that’s been important to your life? And not just to my life but to the whole Bitter End lifestyle, which is what defines us.”Using air bags, it was floated and dragged onto the beach. Then, Hokin had an idea.“I have always had a bee in my bonnet about a beach bar—and that a boat would make a really cool beach bar. This was the opportunity. We’re starting from scratch [rebuilding Bitter End]. We had the boat, and the boat was integral to Bitter End’s story. I figured she’s worked hard for us for close to 50 years; let’s give her a place where she doesn’t have to work so hard and everybody can enjoy her.”

Now, Reef Sampler, freshly varnished and painted in its original hue, has pride of place on Marina Beach at Bitter End 2.0. On its foredeck is a navigation table with seating for 8; along its sheerline aft, there’s a bar for resting a drink; and within its cockpit is a fully equipped bar for serving. Above it floats tent fabric, shading patrons and protecting the boat from the weather.

It’s one of the new additions to the revived property. For the quiet reopening over the past holidays, everything a sailor needs was up and running, including the Quarterdeck Club with a panoramic second-floor lounge, the Watersports Shack, The Buoy Room a salty sailor’s bar , and an expanded provisioning market that also offers prepared foods and a full wine-and-spirits shop. Opening soon are two shore accommodations called Marina Lofts, which extend alluringly over the water, and two more restaurants will be ready to serve by spring. 

Re-imagined to be more closely aligned with Mother Nature, the new resort is both different and the same. “We knew we weren’t going to build an exact replica, but we’ve tried really hard to employ the character, vibe and lifestyle that define the place,” Hokin says. Nothing encapsulates this spirit better than a beach-bar boat that started life as a vehicle for just messing around on the water.

It’s not the only physical reminder of the past. The major docks survived the storm, and bits of memorabilia salvaged from the debris are displayed among the new buildings—but Reef Sampler is perhaps its most evocative.

“I think a boat is pretty close to a living entity. After 70 years of messing around in boats, I’m absolutely sure boats have lives because they’ve treated me well at times and also have had a few tantrums,” Hokin says with a smile.

To learn more about the re-opening of Bitter End Yacht Club and stay up to date on new updates, visit beyc.com. To see more footage from Bitter End Yacht Club, follow them on YouTube.

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The news is good. Travel is coming back. Borders are reopening, and there is a long list of denied celebrations that deserve to be reinstated. With the light finally shining brightly at the end of a dark tunnel, now is the perfect time to get away from the day-to-day so that we can truly honor those noteworthy events that have been put on hold for far too long. Big-time celebrations deserve a big-time venue and there’s no better place to get your celebration on than the British Virgin Islands. Known for perfect sailing conditions, show-stopping beaches and endless secret spots, the British Virgin Islands is just what the doctor ordered now that the world is returning to normal.

Let the wind take you to legendary beach bars at the water’s edge with just the right amount of music and lively atmosphere. Enjoy otherworldly views that show off the natural landscape while visiting seemingly infinite anchorages, harbors and marinas—all of which are prepared to greet you as if you were royalty. Celebrate all of the noteworthy events that have been put on hold for far too long in one of the most beautiful, sought-after destinations: the BVI.

To look at these islands on a map is to understand why beach lovers, sailors, underwater explorers and privacy seekers love this destination: The Sir Francis Drake Channel separates the main island of Tortola from a string of more than 60 islands—some with resorts and some inhabited only by birds and iguanas. This means more coastline, beaches and secluded coves for relaxing. It also means a massive water playground ideal for all kinds of watersports: sailing, snorkeling, scuba diving and more. There’s so much to do for you and yours to have fun and catch up on any missed celebrations—regardless of who you travel with or what you’re celebrating.

Where to Stay

This mix of islands offers a diversity of accommodations, from secluded to happening, with a focus on everything from wellness to active pursuits. Celebrating a romantic milestone? Rosewood Little Dix Bay on the island of Virgin Gorda offers pampering, yoga and upscale accommodations with outdoor showers, all amid a natural setting that highlights the tropical landscape and bluewater views – the perfect location for a couple looking to get away and just relax.

Looking for a place to bring family together? Oil Nut Bay, reopened since December 2020, caters to families and multigeneration travelers with villas, chefs for hire, a marina and more than 400 acres of wild space. Every resort offers plenty to do to fill any vacation, but one of the highlights of the British Virgin Islands is how easy it is to island hop.

BVI by Boat

In fact, the islands are so close together that many travelers can’t choose just one, instead opting for a charter-boat vacation. Power or sail, bareboat or crewed, a charter-boat vacation is the perfect way to see it all—on your own schedule. Boating gives you the freedom to choose a completely personalized itinerary. Those who simply wish to relax as much as possible during their getaway can book a crewed yacht with a captain and chef.

It’s a great way to celebrate or simply relax and let a captain handle the boat and a chef cater to your party’s tastes—whether that be a full brunch spread in the morning or a barbecue off the stern at sunset. While those who desire a more independent vacation might choose a bareboat charter and move from destination to destination completely at their own pace.

What to Do

For land- and sea-based travelers, one of the don’t-miss scenic attractions is the Baths, a collection of basalt boulders nestled together to create grottoes and tunnels, as well as overlooks ideal for photos.

Jost Van Dyke, off the backside of the main island of Tortola, is beloved as much for its gently sloping white-sand beach as it is for the lineup of open-air bars, including White Bay’s Soggy Dollar Bar and Hendo’s Hideout.

Take a short boat ride around the point into Great Harbour for a chance encounter with Foxy – the namesake of the beloved Foxy’s Beach Bar – or a pizza baked to perfection at Corsairs Beach Bar.

Come for the day to enjoy the famous Painkiller—a mix of coconut, pineapple and orange juices with rum and nutmeg—while lounging beachside. This island is also home to Ocean Spa BVI, the Caribbean’s only floating spa, where you can get a massage right on the ocean.

In between it all are endless hidden spots as well as off-the-beaten-path attractions and tours. The island of Anegada—the farthest island from Tortola—is not one that every BVI traveler visits. Those who do can take part in the unique experience of choosing your own lobster and having it grilled to order.

The Anegada Beach Club delivers island-style glamping with its luxury thatched-roof cottages complete with hammocks and outdoor tubs, allowing guests to commune with nature in the utmost comfort. This outpost isle is also a perfect choice for bonefishing, horseback riding and kitesurfing.

For those in your group who like to reach secret spots on foot, tour operator Hike BVI offers guided walks through the best of the islands’ wild spaces, from bat caves to jungle hilltop overlooks. It’s a fun and active way to make memories that can happen only here.

Those who scuba dive will certainly experience many of the hidden gems this destination is famous for—and perhaps discover a few of their own. The RMS Rhone is often considered the Caribbean’s most famous wreck dive. The steamer sunk in an 1867 hurricane and is now split into two halves off Salt Island. Dive it to encounter green turtles, moray eels and nurse sharks, and, inside the hull, glittering schools of glassfish.

Beyond the Rhone, the BVI offers an ever-growing list of dive sites, including “Sharkplaneo” – you read that right! After the devastating hurricanes in 2017, the group behind the sinking of the famous “Kodiak Queen” art reef took on the task of transforming out-of-commission airplanes into half-airplane/half-shark dive sites. Why, you ask? The hope is that these new dive sites will turn some heads, but also raise awareness of the importance and necessity of sharks in our waters.

When to Race

The biggest racing event in the BVI is the BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival. This five-day event includes several races, as well as welcome parties, barbecues and more. Those who wish to race have the option of chartering a 38- to 52-foot monohull or a 39- to 58-foot catamaran from the Moorings to compete.

Then, in late October, Tortola welcomes qualifiers from each stop of the Helly Hansen National Offshore One Design Regatta to the Championship Final. Each qualifier will be assigned the exact same size and model Sunsail monohull sailboat for a weeklong series of one-design races that will crown the year’s overall champion. Nonqualifiers are invited to join the flotilla of race teams and their supporters by chartering their own Sunsail monohull or catamaran during that same week to cheer on their favorite team and enjoy the camaraderie of the touring race teams and their entourage.

There’s so much to discover and fall in love with that the British Virgin Islands quickly feel like a second home. Go and take it all in—from a cocktail on the white-sand beach to the Zen of sailing such calm waters—and you’ll know what locals mean when they say “BVI Love”: that feeling of perfect, blissed-out relaxation. After a year of uncertainty and postponements, we can’t think of a better place to celebrate getting back on track. So, whatever you’re celebrating, add the British Virgin Islands to your must-visit short list.

For those making immediate plans to visit, know that those who are not vaccinated can quarantine comfortably at their resort or aboard their yacht, while vaccinated travelers only need to present proof of vaccination and a negative PCR test taken within 5-days of arrival in the BVI.

For more information on the reopening of the BVI and to start planning your next getaway, visit their website.

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